By Jennifer Langille
Weeds are a part of every garden, no matter how experienced the gardener. Those perfectly manicured, weed-free images you see on social media? They’re not the whole story. Even seasoned growers get overwhelmed sometimes. But with a consistent, thoughtful approach, weeds don’t have to take over. Stay ahead of them, and you’ll spend more time enjoying your flowers and vegetables, and less time pulling invaders.
Here’s a simple plan to help you get ahead—and stay there.
1. Understand What You’re Fighting
A weed is just a plant growing where it’s not wanted. Some are aggressive invaders, while others are opportunists. Knowing what kind of weed you’re dealing with helps you choose the best control method. Not sure what it is? Try using Google Lens to identify it.
Annual weeds (like chickweed and lamb’s quarters) grow quickly and spread by seed.
● Perennial weeds (such as dandelion, coltsfoot, bindweed) come back year after year from persistent roots.
- Weedy grasses (including crabgrass and quackgrass) spread by runners and seeds.
Understanding the life cycle is key. Annuals are easier to manage by preventing seeding. Perennials need a deeper dig (the entire root, ideally) or smothering.
2. Prevention Is the Best Medicine
Prevent weeds before they start, and you’ll do far less work later. A few smart strategies:
- Mulch generously with 2–3 inches of straw, bark, leaves, or compost. It smothers weed seeds and keeps soil cool and moist. (Read our full guide to mulching here.)
Plant densely to shade out weed seedlings.
Use clean soil and compost to avoid introducing weed seeds.
Edge your beds with metal, brick, or deep edging to keep invasive grasses out.
3. Tools of the Trade
The right tools make weeding easier and even a little satisfying:
Try a hori-hori knife, stirrup hoe, or hand weeder. One of our readers, Laura Patriquin, swears by her Telesco Weeder from Veseys.
- For clean edges, Elizabeth gets down on her hands and knees and edges by hand with sheep shears! I’m a fan of my half-moon edger—it’s fast and rhythmic once you get going.
Just remember: sharp tools are effective tools. Keep them honed for best results.
4. Smother and Starve
Weeds need light, air, and water—just like all plants. In pathways or veggie rows, lay down weed fabric or newspaper under mulch to block out light.
For serious weed pressure, try solarization: cover the soil with black plastic for 4–6 weeks in summer sun. It superheats the soil and kills seeds and roots by depriving them of light and air.
5. Know When to Start Fresh
Sometimes, a clean slate is the best option, especially when invasive weeds like bindweed or goutweed take over.
I once had to do this with a patch of lily-of-the-valley. Lovely in the right spot, but it was smothering nearby perennials. I dug deep, relocated the lilies to a better area, rescued the others, and rebuilt the bed from scratch.
Consider it a fresh start—for both you and your soil.
6. Things to Avoid
Over-tilling: It brings dormant weed seeds to the surface. Try no-dig methods when possible.
Letting weeds go to seed: One weed can produce thousands of new seeds.
Neglecting paths and edges: These are prime weed entry points. Keep them tidy and well-maintained.
7. Stay Consistent
Weeding isn’t a one-and-done job, but a little regular effort goes a long way.
Make quick weed walks part of your routine. Ten minutes a day can save hours later.
Weed after rain. The soil is soft, and roots come out more easily.
Don’t aim for perfection. Aim for persistence.
June 2025